Too Many Gem. Too Many Many Gem … Settings
Too Many Gem too Many Many Gem
First, lemme’ just say there’s no such thing as too many gems. We love to be blinded by a good bit of bling. But, anyone remember the Boy Better Know Too Many Man song by Skepta, ft Wiley, Jme, Frisco, Shorty ? Well that’s how we feel about gem settings.
Too many settings too many many settings.
(… Just doesn’t have the same ring though, does it).
We realised that it’s impossible to know which one someone’s on about without looking at pictures. So we’ve put a little list together for ya.
These aren’t anywhere near all of the setting types out there, so if you still can’t find the name for the one in your head, or you’re just after something not on here, give us a (free) call on 0330 124 3591. Or drop us a message.
Gem Setting Types:
Usually done with melee diamonds (0.1-0.2cts).
Tiny holes are drilled into the metal and prongs are either moulded from this metal, or from small metal beads that are placed into the holes. Tiny prongs = minimal metal visibility + maximum diamond visibility = the “sea of diamonds” effect. It’s the tiny metal prongs between the gems that create the pavement look this setting’s named for.
Pretty much done the same way as traditional Pavé, but with a microscope. Because only diamonds smaller than 0.1 carats are used (usually 0.005ct or smaller). Gives the look of more diamonds in a small area.
Pavé Setting – French:
AKA: V Pavé; V Setting.
A modified version of Pavé. Small upside-down ‘V’ shapes are cut into the metal below each gem = More light hitting the gem & less metal seen = Bigger bling levels.
AKA: U-Cut Pavé.
‘U’ shapes are cut out of the metal below each gem, giving a sick suspended look. The metal between each gem is pretty visible, but the gems are almost entirely visible = Crazy light reflection & major bling effect.
Usually done with diamonds to harness the beauty of sunshine glistening on freshly fallen snow.
Similar to Pavé, but with a more natural look because Snow settings break away from uniform rows of gems by using a mix of diamond sizes (from tiny 0.05mm to 1.6mm diamonds). This also means that no 2 Snow set pieces will ever be the same. The setter must measure and drill holes matching the exact size of each individual gem. Metal is even less visible in Snow settings than Pavé settings because there’s no uniform row = Major bling effect.
The gems are set deep into the mounting and a raised collar of the metal is wrapped around the rim of each gem. This setting’s one of the securest.
Half Bezel Setting:
The gems are set the same as in a Bezel setting, but the collar reaches around only half of the gem’s rim. It’s less secure, but it makes the gem look bigger.
In Fishtail Settings, the metal that’s cut away to seat the gems gives a “fishtail” look from side-on.
AKA: Bead Set; Bright-Cut Set.
A channel’s carved into the metal as a seat for the gems. When the gems are in place, the top sides of the channel walls are hammered to secure them. If rounded gems are used, you’ll see triangular spaces between them.
Pretty similar to Channel settings, but the bars go across the design, instead of parallel with the gems.
Shared Prong Setting:
2 gems are secured by the same prong, meaning the gems can be placed closer. Metal to gem ratio is minimal = Crazy bling level.
Surface Prong Setting:
Holes are drilled into the metal as seats for the gems. Prongs (usually small and rounded beads) are soldered onto the surface of the metal to secure the gems.
AKA: Prong Setting (USA).
Claw settings do what they say on the tin. Small metal claws (prongs) hold the gems in place.
The most typical Claw settings are 4 or 6. The less claws = the bigger the gem looks. But there’s so many different types of Claw settings that it’s always worth talking to a specialist before making a decision.
AKA: Lucida Setting; Xprong Setting; Crossover Setting.
An alternative to the traditional Claw setting. The design effect is of crossover prongs from side-on.
Tension Setting – Pure:
The gem looks like it’s ‘floating’ and is shown off from all angles. Again, doing what it says on the tin, the gem’s held in place by tension from the metal on either side.
Tension Setting – Enhanced:
A modification of the Tension Setting is to fix the two sides of metal together below the gem. It ups the secure-level and stops the metal from separating.
AKA: Rubover Setting; Flush Setting.
Similar to Bezel settings, but the gems sit entirely in the metal so that they’re flush with the surface.
Gypsy Set gems can even be placed on the inside of a piece. Either as secret quality added for personal appreciation, or as a secret symbol of love in a gift or memorial piece.
AKA: Invisible Setting.
Illusion setting = Ultimate “carpet of stones” and wow factor. Tiny rails are cut into the metal (or sometimes soldered on top of the metal) and small grooves are cut into the base of the gems so that they can slot in.